Experiencing the Greatness Of Allah swt: Part III - Syria Chapter

As the famous saying goes, ‘The more you give the more you get.’ The teaching of Islam encouraged its followers to sincerely share and give away certain portion of their wealth to others in whatever appropriate ways through proper channels.
It is said that the Prophet Muhammad sallah hu alaihi wassalam (saw) – peace be upon him, never like to keep any wealthy worldly things in his house.
With that fundamental, we continued our part III backpacking trip to Syria to the path of Allah swt to experience His Greatness. Thus, our main objectives were to visit as many as possible the tombs, shrines, masjid and other Islamic historical interesting places, while investing our wealth that Allah swt had granted us. Now, why Syria? Syria, besides its modesty, treasures many significant Islamic stories and histories of the famous prophets, the Companions of Rasullullah saw (peace be upon him) and his family members, and the stories of many Pious-Wise men. In line with our main objectives and out of our eagerness, we have opted Syria to refresh our knowledge and enrich our inner strength. May Allah swt grant us His Blessing, Grace and Mercy. Aamiiin.
On the 3rd of April 2010 at 15:15 hours, amid the unpredictable Egyptian weather, probably due to the global warming phenomena, seven of us commenced our backpacking trip to Syria searching the ‘light’ of Allah swt. We arrived at Cairo or to be specific, Qatamaya and stopped at Carrefour for our brief dinner around 20:50 hours. Subsequently, we arrived at Terminal 1 of the Cairo International Airport 10 minutes before 22:00 hours. The airpotophobia that I had when I travel around this region, motivated us to pray before Allah swt for His Mercy to smoothen the check-in, immigration and other airport administrative processes.
Alhamdullillah, travelling light with no big luggage, we went through all the ‘gates’ with less hustle. Well, the Egyptian is in general a very friendly and helpful species. There was slight commotion though between some of the passengers and the security team at the boarding Gate 6 that caused around 20 minutes delay of the flight RB 206. We met a friendly sweet Syrian couple, originally from Latakia who spent 2 months in Egypt while in the departure lounge. Finally, around 23:50 hours, we were transported to the Boeing 777 of the Arab Syrian Airline. The plane took off at around 00:15 hours on April 4 2010 to Damascus via Latakia, Syria.
At 04:15 hours, we finally landed at the Damascus International Airport safely. There were fewer passengers during that odd hour and the gloomy mood of the Airport crew, Security personnel and Immigration officers painted by their gloomy faces enhanced your patience. Hence, the speedy immigration process and less hustles.
Amir, our guide waited us at the arrival hall with his Assistant Azmi. We greeted each other and introduced our team to them. In Syria, we need someone who really has vast knowledge and experience to guide and bring us around. Will share and write about them later. We were ushered to the van outside the terminal building. Fortunately, it was just merely 3 minutes waiting or otherwise we would be dead frozen by the freezing cold Syrian weather.

After 15 minutes drive from the airport, around 05:00 hours we arrived at our ‘hotel’ a home stay (arranged by Amir) near the Halawat Street near the downtown Dimasq. We performed our Fajr prayer at the nearby Masjid. Before going to our first agenda of the day, Amir advised us to doze off for at least 2 hours and we actually did it for 3 hours. Alhamdullillah.

ZS1: Imam Nawawi Shrine at Nawah

Amir knocked our door around 09:10 hours, however, mainly due to the hectic journey from Alexandria-Cairo-Latakia and Damascus, we hastily responded 5 minutes later. That was not good though, because it has affected the rest of the program. Hence the hustle of coming up with the catch-up plan. Anyway, 15 minutes later, we commenced our Day 1 Agenda to Busra by 10-seat coaster prearranged by Amir. As I have mentioned earlier, it was indeed a good idea to have a ‘tourist guide’ like Amir. Besides showing and guiding us to the historical places, etc., he arranged and negotiated another aspect like transportation, accommodation and even helped us (especially Nana) to deal with the Syrian on the shopping things. Less headache and worries!! It was killing three birds with one stone.

As part of the catch-up plan, we had our run-away breakfast inside our coaster. It was purely scrumptious Syrian delicacies, Mahalli, etc. Used to have fried rice in the morning, but to avoid hypoglycemia and hunger wreck havoc our mood, we walloped all whar Amir had bought us. The first visit was the tomb of Imam Nawawi at Nawah. We arrived there at around 11:30 and spent about 15 minutes exploring the area. Amir explained us on the history of the tomb and briefly on the Imam Nawawi’s biography.

A little bit about his biography: The full name of Imam Nawawi is Abu Zakaria Mohiuddin Yahya, son of Sharaf AnÄNawawi. Nawawi refers to the district where he was born in 631 AH, called Nawa, in the suburb of the city of Howran. He was very popular on the Islamic Sharia’ah legal matters. His father, a virtuous and pious man, resolved to arrange for proper and befitting education as he had discovered the symptoms of heavenly intelligence and wisdom in his promising child at an early stage.

It is claimed that his body was buried under the tree (in the above photo) when he passed away in 676 AH. Al Fatihah....The Caretaker of this graveyard shown us some quranic verses that appeared on the trunk of the tree that proven the piousness of the Imam Nawawi. Allah hu alam - Allah swt knows best.

Imam Nawawi had endless thirst for knowledge, proven from his daily practice of studies. He used to read daily twelve lessons and write explanation and commentary of every lesson and made important additions. Whatever the book he read, he put down the marginal notes and explanations on that book. His intelligence, hard work, love, and devotion with his studies amazed his teachers. Other than reading and writing, he spent his time contemplating on the interacted and complex issues and in finding their solutions. This learned Imam had a very short life though, but even during this short period, he had written a large number of books on different subjects - a masterpiece and a treasure of knowledge.

Stunned and amazed by the stories, and what we saw in front of us, we left the place with mixed feeling.

The Convivial Nawahians

After almost 1.5 hours drive and visiting Imam Nawawi’s shrine, we had a brief stop at Nawah town for ‘refueling’. I mean stocking up our ration. The people of the modest and pleasant town were very friendly and convivial.
Nana trying her skill frying the Syrian Falafel (looks like donut!). Indeed, it was tastier than the one we used to have in Egypt. And, it was ridiculously cheap. Well, in general the local produce are relatively cheaper than in other places that we had visited.

ZS2: Prophet Ayub a.s. Spring at Hawran

The entrance claimed by the local, to the Spring of Prophet Ayub a.s. Another school claimed that his spring and tomb are in Salalah, Oman. Allah hu A'lam.

Nevertheless, our next visit was the Spring of Prophet Ayub alaihis salam (a.s) or Prophet Job in the bible, in the Hawran district, 10 minutes drive from Nawah, Syria. Prophet Ayub a.s was the grandson of Nabi Ishak a.s or Isaac and his mother was the daughter of Nabi Lut a.s or Prophet Lot a.s. Therefore, he was the great grandson of Nabi Ibrahim a.s or Abraham a.s.

Well known for his great patience, he was a very wealthy, but generous and pious man. Nabi Ayub lost his riches, then lost all his children, and was inflicted with a disease that ostracized him from his community, but never did he lost his faith in Allah swt. He suffered for 15 years until Allah swt told him to hit the ground where a water spring emerged. With the water, he bathed and drank which cured him of his illness. He was given back his health and children with his ever-faithful wife, Rahmah.
The water still flowing and you could clearly see school of fish swimming circling inside the greenish water. The area however, seems to be neglected – in the poor state. A group photo before we departed for the Prophet's tomb nearby.

ZS3: Prophet Ayub a.s. Shrine

We arrived at the Prophet Ayub a.s.’s tomb around 11:09 hours. The area is facing the Golan Height or Joulan in local dialect, located along the highway to Busra. The place was well-maintained and taken care by the Local. It has few basic facilities, such as, toilets, drinkable water supply, prayer room, etc. for the visitors.
Well known for his notable patience, Prophet Ayub a.s. was from Syria and had two wives. He had become very sick and the illness spanned over 15 years. During that time, the exterior of his body became infested with worms. He believed that his flesh was the food for these creatures of Allah and to show his devotion to Allah, he allowed the worms to eat of his flesh. If a worm would fall off, he would pick it back up and put it back on his flesh.The sickness repulsed the people of Syria to the extent that he had to leave the area. Only one of his two wives chose to travel with him. They left Syria and travelled to the mountain top where his remains now lie.
During a very critical stage of his illness, Hazrat Jabriel a.s. visited him and conveyed ‘salam’, when a worm was eating his tongue. He was not able to answer to the salutation - salam of Jabriel a.s.. Jabriel a.s. came again and enquired him why he was not able to answer the salam. Prophet Ayub a.s. then, explained to Jibriel a.s, a worm was feeding from his tongue and he would have shaken his tongue or given answer to him then the worm would have lost his food.
This great act of this pleased Allah swt and as stated, his sickness lasted over 15 years. It is said that, when the worms began to eat inside his mouth, Prophet Ayub a.s. realized his breaking point and finally asked Allah for mercy. In response to this request, aware of the years of devotion and hardship, it is believed that Allah swt instructed Prophet Ayub a.s. to step out from his house and place his foot in a particular spot. When doing so a small hole in the ground opened up and from within the ground an outpouring of water occurred right next to his foot.
Allah swt then, instructed him to drink this water and upon doing so, he was not only cured of his sickness but his body was restored to the health of an 18-year-old young man. Prophet Ayub a.s. then lived until the age of 92 when he finally died and was put to rest in the very spot he dwelled all these years after his departure from Syria. In my opinion, until now, Prophet Ayub a.s.'s body remains in the same spot claimed to be at Salalah, Oman. The tomb that we went (in Syria), was, I think, the place where he inhabited before he was ‘expelled’ by the Locals then. Allah hu Alam – Allah swt knows best.

ZS4: The Valley of Yarmouk

The story of Prophet Ayub a.s. had reminded us the importance and the essentiality to subscribe ourselves to this element for our success. While imparting the story into our CPU, 15 minutes later, our coaster arrived at another nostalgic place where one of the most significant events in the Islamic history, the Battle of Yarmouk took place.
The Battle of Yarmouk‎, also spelled Yarmuk, lead by Khalid ibn Al-Walid r.a. was a major battle between the Muslim Arab forces of the Rashidun Caliphate and the armies of the Roman-Byzantine Empire. The battle consisted of a series of engagements that lasted for six days in August 636, at this place called the Yarmouk Valley. The result of the battle was a complete Muslim victory, which permanently ended Byzantine rule south of Anatolia. The battle is regarded as an example in military history where an inferior force by superior generalship manages to overcome a superior force. And, one of the most decisive battles in military history and it marked the first great wave of Islamic conquests after the death of Prophet Muhammad saw (peace be upon him), heralding the rapid advance of Islam into the then Christian Levant.
The view and the serenity of the surrounding refreshed our memory, which helped us to visualize the situation then. The companions (May Allah swt pleased with them) of Prophet Muhammad saw (peace be upon him) who had sacrificed their life and martyred during this battle had achieved a true sense of success, which all of us should learn.
After spending around 15 minutes admiring the place, we continued our journey to Busra.

Fluffy & Shaggy Syrian Sheep

Along the Syrian highway, whether you are heading North or South, you will be entertained by the Syrian natural authentic landscape. And, in many places flocks of fluffy sheep and shaggy local goat will catch your eyes. With no exception, the fluffy and shaggy thingy has attracted us and lured to stop when we were on the way to the Southern part of Syria – Busra. The Bedouin Sheppard was very cooperative and friendly. What amazed us their sheep & goats were very obedient, quite and odorless. The green fertile grass and the fresh ambience, I believed, have made them more fluffy and shaggy. Hence, the succulent Lamb chops.

Pit Stop 1 - Turkey Kebab & Strategic Planning

We had our first Pit Stop some 20 kilometers away before Busra, for our brief lunch and meeting (meeting is one of the sunnah (the way) of the great Prophet Muhammad saw) – to strategize our trip program and itinerary. It was a decent restaurant along the highway serving its specialties – turkey kebab. 100 meters away was a beautiful Masjid where we performed our obligation.
We ordered 2 kilogram of the turkey kebab or kofta (in Egypt), served with sweet grilled big onion & tomatoes, Syrian aish or bread, cucumber and ketchup. Believed me, in almost 15 minutes, all gone!!.

ZS5: Meeting place of Bahira & Abu Talib at Busra

After minutes walk, exploring the 'city', we arrived to a place claimed to be a meeting place between a famous Christian monk named Bahira and Abu Talib – the uncle of the great Messenger of Allah swt, Prophet Muhammad saw (peace be upon him). The place was one of the important items in our agenda at Busra. According to the story - by Amir and that I gathered from my reading; either when Prophet Muhammad saw (peace be upon him) was 9 or 12 years old, he accompanied his uncle Abu Talib ibn Abd Al Mutallib during their business trip with a Makkan caravan. When the caravan was passing by his cell, the monk invited them to a feast. They accepted the invitation, leaving the boy to guard the camel. Bahira (his real name was Georges), however, insisted that everyone in the caravan should come to him. He entertained them generously and lavishly. Then a miraculous occurrence indicated to the monk that Muhammad was to become a prophet.
He had never been in the habit of receiving or entertaining them before. He readily enough recognized the Prophet Muhammad saw [peace be upon him] and said while taking his hand; "This is the master of all humans. Allah swt will send him with a Message which will be a mercy to all beings." Abu Talib asked; "How do you know that?" He replied; "When you appeared from the direction of ‘Aqabah, all stones and trees prostrated themselves, which they never do except for a Prophet. I can recognize him also by the seal of Prophethood which is below his shoulder, like an apple. We have got to learn this from our books." He also asked Abu Talib to send the boy back to Makkah and not to take him to Syria for fear of the Jews. Abu Talib obeyed and sent him back to Makkah with some of his men servants.
Really...., it was an indescribable experience when all of landed our feet on this nostalgic spot. Astonished and amazed, Afi captured the serenity of the spot in his sketchbook. We met a group of South African families in front of the building before he moved on. Alhamdullillah wa Allah hu Alam.

ZS6: Exploring the Ancient City of Busra

We went straight to the Old Roman city after arriving Busra at around 13:35 hours. Alhamdullillah. Entering the city was free of charge, thus, Ahmed drove us in. Few minutes later, however, we decided to walk through the city to better enjoy the scene and feel the nostalgic sense of each single part of the city.
The walk had somehow or rather, reduced the naughty cholestrol level, the uric acid content in my blood and hopefully, enhanced our metabolism. Well, Busra that we knew; is an ancient city administratively belonging to the Daraa Governorate in southern Syria. It is a major archaeological site and has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The settlement was first mentioned in the documents of Tutmose III and Akhenaton (14th century BC). Busra was the first Nabataean city in the 2nd century BC. The Nabataean Kingdom was conquered by Cornelius Palma, a general of Trajan, in 106. Exploring the city was a great opportunities for Afiq, Asri and Afi in enhancing their knowledge and sketching skills - creativity.
Under the Roman Empire, Busra was renamed Nova Trajana Bostra, and was the residence of the legio III Cyrenaica and capital of the Roman province Arabia Petraea. The city flourished and became a major metropolis at the juncture of several trade routes, including the Roman road to the Red Sea. The two Councils of Arabia were held at Bostra in 246 and 247 AD. The city was conquered by the Sassanid Persians in the early 7th century, but was finally captured by the forces of the Rashidun Caliphate under Khalid ibn Walid in the Battle of Busra in 634. Thereafter it was an Islamic possession. And, it is said that, Prophet Muhammad saw (peace be upon him) himself made his business trip to trade whatever he had with his first wife Sayeda Khadijah r.ah.

The above photos: M Afiq, 'Afi and the charming Syrian kid of the Old City of Busra. Subhanallah. Busra played an important part in the early life of the Prophet Muhammed saw (peace be upon him) as described in the entry for the Christian Monk, Bahira.

Today, Busra is a major archaeological site, containing ruins from Roman, Byzantine, and Muslim times, its main feature being the well-preserved Roman theatre. Alhamdullillah, praise only for Allah swt. We were very grateful that He has given us the time, wealth and strength to visit the one of the most significant place in the history of the great Messenger of Allah, Prophet Muhammad saw and also his Companions. Seeing is believing and visiting it, was an indulging experience.

ZS7: Al Umari Masjid - One of the Oldest Masjid

Al Umari Masjid, located ins ancient Roman city of Busra, is one of the oldest surviving mosques in Islamic history. It was founded in 636 by Saidina Umar ra during his helm as the second Caliph, who led the Muslim conquest of Syria. The Caliph Yazid II completed the masjid in 720. It was then, renovated and expanded in the twelfth and thirteenth centuries by the Ayyubid dynaties who also fortified the Roman theatre and baths.

Honestly, I never expected to find or visit a masjid within the Old city of Busra. Not until Amir brought us around the Old city, he told us that there is one old masjid inside the perimeter, which is use by the Locals to perform their obligation.
The masjid's plan is arranged around an enclosed courtyard wrapped with a single arcade on the eastern and western sides and a double arcade on the southern side that leads to the prayer hall. The courtyard was originally used as a market and sleeping area for traveling caravans on the trade routes across Syria, especially on the annual pilgrimage roads to Makkah. It has one of the earliest examples of an Umayyad square minaret, which was repeated in the other great Umayyad Masjid in Damascus and Aleppo.
We spent quite sometime in the masjid admiring the architecture and the layout, which mesmerized us all. It reminded us about the legacy of the second Caliph of Islam, Saidina Umar radiallah hu anh.

ZS8: The Hamman Manjak

One of the oldest Hammam or public bathroom in Syria or to be specific, in the middle of the old city of Busra, adjacent to the al-Umari Masjid. It is now, an open museum.
Despite went through several restoration works in the past, the original structure and design layout is still maintained.

ZS9: The Remnant of the Roman Empire@Busra

The Roman Amphitheater – one of Busra’s prominent features. However, I did not enter the theater, which is claimed to be one of the biggest ancient Roman Amphitheater ever survived and utilized in the whole world. To me, besides the architecture, it was just a mere theater! Every year there was a national music festival hosted in the main theater. The Amphitheater was the second last spot that we visited at Busra. After we roamed and visited few rows of shops, we departed for Dimasq at around 16:15 hours.