One of the main features of Istanbul and popular among the foreigner and the locals alike is the Grand Bazaar or Kapalicarsi in the local dialect, literally means the Covered Bazaar. The Covered Bazaar is one of the largest and oldest covered markets in the world, with more than 58 covered streets and over 1,200 shops which attract between 250,000 and 400,000 visitors daily.
We heard a lot about the bazaar from our friends who had visited Istanbul. It is a place a must to visit. After spending around one hour wandering at the neighborhood, we asked people on the street the direction to the Bazaar. Most of the friendly people that we met and asked kindly showed us the way but frankly said the Bazaar is closed for one main reason; it was a Public Holiday – 1.1.2010. Despite the advice, however, I looked at Nana and made up our mind – GO – we decided to visit the Bazaar. Fortunate enough, the main gates were opened, most of the shops had commenced their operations, and people started entering the gates. It was then around 09:40 hours we entered the Bazaar through Gate 1 or Nuruosmaniye Gate of Kalpakcilar Caddesi or Street passing through the Nuruosmaniye Masjid, which was still under major restoration. Right after the gate, was the Sandal bedestens where most of the jewelleries shops located.
Opened in 1461, it is well known for its jewelry, pottery, spice, and carpet shops. Many of the stalls in the bazaar are grouped by the type of goods, with special areas for leather coats, gold jewelry and the like. The bazaar contains two bedestens (domed masonry structures built for storage and safe keeping), the first of which was constructed between 1455 and 1461 by the order of Sultan Mehmed II the Conqueror. The bazaar was vastly enlarged in the 16th century, during the reign of Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent, and in 1894 underwent a major restoration following an earthquake.
The Sandal Bedesten was built later to house the fine fabric trade and is also known as the New or Small Bedesten. Located to the southeast of the Old Bedesten the Sandal Bedesten is a simple walled enclosure measuring 38.8 by 32 meters, covered by twenty small domes in four rows that rest on twelve piers. Entered from gates at the center of each façade, the bedesten is surrounded by an irregular fabric of masonry stores on all sides. Both the Old and Sandal Bedesten have rubble stone-walls, brick domes, stone piers and brick arches tied by juniper beams. Their heavy iron doors are embellished with nails. . It was on this street at one of its junctions; we met and had a brief chat with the humble but visionary Datuk Seri Mustapa Mohamed, Minister of MITI with his wife Datin Seri and his friends.
A little bit about the Old Bedesten; known as Jewelers' Bedesten, Inner Bedesten or Big Bedesten, is located at the center of the covered bazaar, oriented slightly off the east-west axis. It consists of forty-four masonry cells around a rectangular courtyard measuring 45.3 by 29.4 meters, enclosed with fifteen domes in three rows. The two rows of eight piers supporting the roof are crowned by small cupolas on the exterior. An outer envelope of 56 shops covers its walls. What amazed me, the interior is lit solely from windows at the upper section of the walls, linked by a wooden catwalk.
Kapaliçarsi or the Covered Bazaar is the collective name given to two bedestens and the series of vaulted commercial streets that surround them, located between the Nuruosmaniye and Bayezid Masjid north of Divanyolu, the main road traversing the historic peninsula heading towards Edirne (Adrinople). It is located at the northern edge of a larger market neighborhood that occupies the southern hillside of the Golden Horn where commercial ships arrived with their loads. From here, the merchandise was distributed to the hans and wholesale markets for distribution throughout the city. Some of these raw goods made their way up the hill to the artisan workshops of the covered bazaar whose streets are named after its artisans: slipper-makers, shoe-makers, mirror-makers, wash-cloth makers, fez-makers, comforter-makers, silk-thread makers, polishers, fur-makers, just to name a few.
The covered bazaar has gone through many fires and earthquakes, following which it was rebuilt and expanded in an ad hoc fashion. Markets surroundings the bedestens were destroyed by fire in 1546, 1589 and 1618. A fire in 1652 originated in the Old Bedesten and a conflagration destroyed the entire city including the markets in 1660. In 1695 and 1701 fires originated again in the Old Bedesten; the wooden vaults of the surrounding streets were converted to masonry in the following restoration. The fire of 1750 damaged the market and was followed by janissaries looting the site.
Repairs were conducted after the 1766 earthquake and fires of 1791 and 1826. Mahmud Celaleddin Pasa (1839-1899), the Minister of Public Works under Abdülhamid II, re-organized the covered market after the 1894 earthquake damaged its structure and vaults. Its size was reduced through removing vaults and detaching hans and new gates were installed on major routes. The structure was reinforced with iron and the vaults were decorated with arabesques. Repairs were conducted in the five years following an earthquake in 1954 and the interior was repainted in 1980. Today, the bazaar retains its 1894 boundaries enclosing 61 streets in an area of 30.7 hectares.
At one glance from the distance or even from the Google Earth, Kapalicarsi comes across as any tourist`s nightmare, with its confusing maze of streets lanes and alleys, teeming with shops, structures and people. However, once you have had a walk around the Bazaar, you will find the layout very easy and tourist-friendly.
The covered bazaar is entered from four main gates located at the end of its two main streets, the north-south Yaglikçilar (oil lamp makers) Street and the east-west Kalpakçilar (fur hat makers) Street, which intersect near the southwest corner of the bazaar. Kalpakçilar Street connects the Bayezid Masjid and Bayezid Square to the west with Nuruosmaniye Masjid to the east; the gates at these locations were added during the 1894 renovation and bear the royal monogram of Abdülhamid II. Through my reading, there are other 20 gates to enter the Bazaar from various points.
Like other souks or bazaars in the Middle East, Egypt or other parts of the world, one must exercise their rights well as a customer. There were no price tags for most of the items displayed, thus, bargaining skill is essential to get the best deal. The Kapalicarsi, however, is much better in many aspects than the famous Khan Khalili, Egypt. The vendors spoke fluent English, the ambience was very pleasant, more organized, and items were properly displayed. Other facilities, such as the wet or water closets were very clean and well maintained; user-friendly signages are everywhere to assist and guide the visitors. The covered bazaar has a number of small Masjid, all built above ground level; post office; banks and moneychangers; Police station; the historic sabils and fountains; and tourist information kiosks.
The Bazaar offers convenience in the sense that whatever you would ever want to buy is available under the same roof and at reasonable quotes too. Another aspect that sets apart the Grand Bazaar or the Covered Bazaar from other souks, in my opinion, is the milieu, which thrives here. It incorporates a slice of Turkish life and walking down its Caddesi or the covered streets or alleys is a cultural experience in itself. The ever-bustling and colorful Kapalicarsi with its diverse ambience can any day give the swank over-priced city malls, a run for their money.
As I have mentioned in the earlier release, Turkey is famed for its hospitality and tourists swear by the warmth of the Turkish. This is no more evident than in the Grand Bazaar itself. Most of the shops you visit, you will receive a courteous welcome. Accompanying it will be a warm smile and a twinkle in the eye.
Although the structure of the covered bazaar has been largely maintained, its function and administration, as well as the nature of its goods and the interior architecture have been transformed beginning in the second half of the nineteenth century. By the 1960's, changes in Turkish industry and economy and in the urban demographics of Istanbul had effectively replaced the traditional craft workshops with western-style boutiques and tourist shops, which constitute the bulk of the trade in the bazaar today.
Most shops are now permanently enclosed with illuminated glass storefronts; while posting signage in alleyways was outlawed after the 1980 restoration. The important role of the medieval guild organizations in the administration, maintenance and protection the bazaar is now inadequately performed by a weak multitude of bazaar associations.
We have to cut our Kapalicarsi visit shot for Friday prayer at around 11:50 hours. 2 hours in the bazaar was surely insufficient to really experience the cultural part of it. Well, as a backpackers and going back to the main intention of our trip, alhamdullillah, thanks to the almighty Allah swt for giving us the opportunity to visit a place where determination, and perseverance had made it existence recognized by the whole world.
One of the main features of Istanbul and popular among the foreigner and the locals alike is the Grand Bazaar or Kapalicarsi in the local dialect, literally means the Covered Bazaar. The Covered Bazaar is one of the largest and oldest covered markets in the world, with more than 58 covered streets and over 1,200 shops which attract between 250,000 and 400,000 visitors daily.
We heard a lot about the bazaar from our friends who had visited Istanbul. It is a place a must to visit. After spending around one hour wandering at the neighborhood, we asked people on the street the direction to the Bazaar. Most of the friendly people that we met and asked kindly showed us the way but frankly said the Bazaar is closed for one main reason; it was a Public Holiday – 1.1.2010. Despite the advice, however, I looked at Nana and made up our mind – GO – we decided to visit the Bazaar. Fortunate enough, the main gates were opened, most of the shops had commenced their operations, and people started entering the gates. It was then around 09:40 hours we entered the Bazaar through Gate 1 or Nuruosmaniye Gate of Kalpakcilar Caddesi or Street passing through the Nuruosmaniye Masjid, which was still under major restoration. Right after the gate, was the Sandal bedestens where most of the jewelleries shops located.
Opened in 1461, it is well known for its jewelry, pottery, spice, and carpet shops. Many of the stalls in the bazaar are grouped by the type of goods, with special areas for leather coats, gold jewelry and the like. The bazaar contains two bedestens (domed masonry structures built for storage and safe keeping), the first of which was constructed between 1455 and 1461 by the order of Sultan Mehmed II the Conqueror. The bazaar was vastly enlarged in the 16th century, during the reign of Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent, and in 1894 underwent a major restoration following an earthquake.
The Sandal Bedesten was built later to house the fine fabric trade and is also known as the New or Small Bedesten. Located to the southeast of the Old Bedesten the Sandal Bedesten is a simple walled enclosure measuring 38.8 by 32 meters, covered by twenty small domes in four rows that rest on twelve piers. Entered from gates at the center of each façade, the bedesten is surrounded by an irregular fabric of masonry stores on all sides. Both the Old and Sandal Bedesten have rubble stone-walls, brick domes, stone piers and brick arches tied by juniper beams. Their heavy iron doors are embellished with nails. . It was on this street at one of its junctions; we met and had a brief chat with the humble but visionary Datuk Seri Mustapa Mohamed, Minister of MITI with his wife Datin Seri and his friends.
A little bit about the Old Bedesten; known as Jewelers' Bedesten, Inner Bedesten or Big Bedesten, is located at the center of the covered bazaar, oriented slightly off the east-west axis. It consists of forty-four masonry cells around a rectangular courtyard measuring 45.3 by 29.4 meters, enclosed with fifteen domes in three rows. The two rows of eight piers supporting the roof are crowned by small cupolas on the exterior. An outer envelope of 56 shops covers its walls. What amazed me, the interior is lit solely from windows at the upper section of the walls, linked by a wooden catwalk.
Kapaliçarsi or the Covered Bazaar is the collective name given to two bedestens and the series of vaulted commercial streets that surround them, located between the Nuruosmaniye and Bayezid Masjid north of Divanyolu, the main road traversing the historic peninsula heading towards Edirne (Adrinople). It is located at the northern edge of a larger market neighborhood that occupies the southern hillside of the Golden Horn where commercial ships arrived with their loads. From here, the merchandise was distributed to the hans and wholesale markets for distribution throughout the city. Some of these raw goods made their way up the hill to the artisan workshops of the covered bazaar whose streets are named after its artisans: slipper-makers, shoe-makers, mirror-makers, wash-cloth makers, fez-makers, comforter-makers, silk-thread makers, polishers, fur-makers, just to name a few.
The covered bazaar has gone through many fires and earthquakes, following which it was rebuilt and expanded in an ad hoc fashion. Markets surroundings the bedestens were destroyed by fire in 1546, 1589 and 1618. A fire in 1652 originated in the Old Bedesten and a conflagration destroyed the entire city including the markets in 1660. In 1695 and 1701 fires originated again in the Old Bedesten; the wooden vaults of the surrounding streets were converted to masonry in the following restoration. The fire of 1750 damaged the market and was followed by janissaries looting the site.
Repairs were conducted after the 1766 earthquake and fires of 1791 and 1826. Mahmud Celaleddin Pasa (1839-1899), the Minister of Public Works under Abdülhamid II, re-organized the covered market after the 1894 earthquake damaged its structure and vaults. Its size was reduced through removing vaults and detaching hans and new gates were installed on major routes. The structure was reinforced with iron and the vaults were decorated with arabesques. Repairs were conducted in the five years following an earthquake in 1954 and the interior was repainted in 1980. Today, the bazaar retains its 1894 boundaries enclosing 61 streets in an area of 30.7 hectares.
At one glance from the distance or even from the Google Earth, Kapalicarsi comes across as any tourist`s nightmare, with its confusing maze of streets lanes and alleys, teeming with shops, structures and people. However, once you have had a walk around the Bazaar, you will find the layout very easy and tourist-friendly.
The covered bazaar is entered from four main gates located at the end of its two main streets, the north-south Yaglikçilar (oil lamp makers) Street and the east-west Kalpakçilar (fur hat makers) Street, which intersect near the southwest corner of the bazaar. Kalpakçilar Street connects the Bayezid Masjid and Bayezid Square to the west with Nuruosmaniye Masjid to the east; the gates at these locations were added during the 1894 renovation and bear the royal monogram of Abdülhamid II. Through my reading, there are other 20 gates to enter the Bazaar from various points. 
Like other souks or bazaars in the Middle East, Egypt or other parts of the world, one must exercise their rights well as a customer. There were no price tags for most of the items displayed, thus, bargaining skill is essential to get the best deal. The Kapalicarsi, however, is much better in many aspects than the famous Khan Khalili, Egypt. The vendors spoke fluent English, the ambience was very pleasant, more organized, and items were properly displayed. Other facilities, such as the wet or water closets were very clean and well maintained; user-friendly signages are everywhere to assist and guide the visitors. The covered bazaar has a number of small Masjid, all built above ground level; post office; banks and moneychangers; Police station; the historic sabils and fountains; and tourist information kiosks.
The Bazaar offers convenience in the sense that whatever you would ever want to buy is available under the same roof and at reasonable quotes too. Another aspect that sets apart the Grand Bazaar or the Covered Bazaar from other souks, in my opinion, is the milieu, which thrives here. It incorporates a slice of Turkish life and walking down its Caddesi or the covered streets or alleys is a cultural experience in itself. The ever-bustling and colorful Kapalicarsi with its diverse ambience can any day give the swank over-priced city malls, a run for their money.
As I have mentioned in the earlier release, Turkey is famed for its hospitality and tourists swear by the warmth of the Turkish. This is no more evident than in the Grand Bazaar itself. Most of the shops you visit, you will receive a courteous welcome. Accompanying it will be a warm smile and a twinkle in the eye.
Although the structure of the covered bazaar has been largely maintained, its function and administration, as well as the nature of its goods and the interior architecture have been transformed beginning in the second half of the nineteenth century. By the 1960's, changes in Turkish industry and economy and in the urban demographics of Istanbul had effectively replaced the traditional craft workshops with western-style boutiques and tourist shops, which constitute the bulk of the trade in the bazaar today.
Most shops are now permanently enclosed with illuminated glass storefronts; while posting signage in alleyways was outlawed after the 1980 restoration. The important role of the medieval guild organizations in the administration, maintenance and protection the bazaar is now inadequately performed by a weak multitude of bazaar associations.
We have to cut our Kapalicarsi visit shot for Friday prayer at around 11:50 hours. 2 hours in the bazaar was surely insufficient to really experience the cultural part of it. Well, as a backpackers and going back to the main intention of our trip, alhamdullillah, thanks to the almighty Allah swt for giving us the opportunity to visit a place where determination, and perseverance had made it existence recognized by the whole world. 
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